In a quiet street near the Termini, Rome’s main railway station, Trattoria Cecio is worth seeking out. It is run by three tall black-bearded brothers who at first sight look alarmingly like members of an extremist group. Don’t worry, they are not. They are instead devoted to serving good food in a simple but pleasant trattoria that attracts Italians as well as tourists – always an encouraging sign. Try their antipasto della casa for a huge amount of smoked meats, and also the grilled prawns. The house wine, which they bottle themselves, is particularly good. Best to book. Tel 06 4464991.