Trieste is a fine city of the Belle Epoque, looking better than ever after recent refurbishments. Unfortunately, it also appears to be filled with piped music, which infests every café, restaurant, bar and indeed street with hellish cacophony. This makes oases of calm even more welcome. Doubly welcome is one that commemorates two of its greatest residents.
In the early 20th century two giants of Modernist literature met and became friends in what was then one of the most cosmopolitan cities on earth: James Joyce, the Irishman who had chosen ‘silence, exile and cunning’ (but not piped music NB), and Italo Svevo (aka Ettore Schmitz), a native of Trieste whose Italo-German name reveals his mixed background. The museum, two floors up in a handsome building, honours both with a remarkable collection of letters, photographs and books.
The knowledgeable, affable curator, who speaks perfect English, will guide you around before showing a short film about Joyce and Svevo. The museum is free but seems to open at rather variable hours.
Best to phone or email it first +39(0)40 – 6758182 / 8170 firstname.lastname@example.org
Blessedly muzac-free museum celebrating two of the 20th-century’s finest writers
Trieste 34121 Trieste 34121